Over the years, I’ve had many people ask what it was about Melbourne that left such an impression. My response usually takes shape in the form of me inarticulately rambling about all the things I loved about living there. One of the facets to those ramblings almost always includes me trying to sell people on Melbourne’s ‘laneway culture’. Even though I’m not the first person to throw the phrase ‘laneway culture’ around, let alone in reference to Melbourne, my enthusiasm for both the phrase and Melbourne’s ‘laneway scene’ could lead one to believe that I very well could be.

Ahh, Melbourne; you and your frigging laneways.

The laneways in Melbourne really are part of the cultural fabric that make it such an exceptional place. I can’t speak for Melbournians, for day visitors, or even for other expats who have hung their hats there for a while. Who I can speak for, though, is me. And I am here to make it known that Melbourne’s laneways are amazing. If you’re sitting there wondering whether Melbourne’s laneways are worth checking out, I have an effective litmus test for you.

Ask yourself:

• Do you enjoy wandering down beautiful, sometimes graffiti-adorned, side streets?
• Are you a fan of places where the vibe can be described as ‘the perks of a bustling city, mixed with the charm and feeling-of-quaint that cobble-stoned European towns embody’?
• Are you keen on nosing around in eclectic shops and getting lost in your own thoughts on a stroll, while forgetting that you’re in the downtown core of a rather large city?

If you answered “yes” to any or all of the above, then you should add Melbourne to your travel list. Go, do it now, I’ll sit tight.

At the risk of sounding even more cliché and over-romanticized about Melbourne’s laneways than I suspect I already do, I feel like it’s only appropriate that I offer up some of my favourite spots. This will be my attempt at being helpful, by providing some ideas for anyone who’s planning on visiting Melbs and is looking for a starting block of spots to visit. The places on the list below are all located in the CBD (“Central Business District”, aka “downtown”). There are so many cool neighbourhoods to check out around Melbourne, but I’m focusing on the CBD in this post (we’d be here for years if I tried to unpack my favourite places around the Greater Melbourne Area in one ‘go’). As a disclaimer, I can assure you that the order in this list is no reflection of the love that I have for each spot. Feel free to read about some, or all, of the spots on the list. Oddly enough, I don’t really have many photos for these places BUT at the bottom of the page I’ve included a whack of photos that shed a bit of light on the laneways and some spots that didn’t make my list. Enjoy!

1. LITTLE MULE CAFÉ

Located on a short little laneway in the CBD (Somerset Place, to be specific), this was probably the laneway café that I frequented the most. I discovered Little Mule Café (now called Cartel Coffee Roasters) during my first stint in Melbs (back in 2014). While it isn’t exactly a ‘hidden secret’ to locals, I considered this to be one of my ‘Melbourne-esque’ hangouts. This designation was (and is) largely due to the fact that it is located down a laneway and tucked back from the main streets in the CBD. In addition, the staff were crazy friendly, embodied a bit of a hipster vibe (my favourite), and put up with me and my laptop for hours-on-end at a time (don’t worry, I always tipped well as a ‘thank you’ for letting me take up real estate). The main door to the venue spans the entire front wall and I’m pretty sure it was once a garage door. The décor in the café was simple, minimalistic, and warm. They had a yummy menu, great tea, and their coffee always smelled delicious (I don’t drink coffee, but it seemed like fellow café-goers enjoyed it). I’ll also add that, largely due to my frequent presence there, I got to know the staff and baristas pretty well! I think I even picked up on one guy’s name, but never had the stones to attempt using it in case I was wrong…just asking would have made things too easy. I grew to feel like I was a real regular each time I rolled up and parked myself for an afternoon and even though the name has changed, I’d strongly suggest making a stop if you’re in the area.

2. ROULE GALETTE

While I only visited this venue once, I thought it needed a mention. I’d seen Roule Galette many times, in passing, as I strolled home from work or the tram stop. Each time I saw it, I made a mental note that a visit was ‘going to happen’. I think I was overly optimistic about concocting some way of staying in Melbourne forever, because I put off visiting this spot for ages. Finally, an expiring visa lit a fire underneath me. With a ‘better late than never’ attitude, it wasn’t until I was on the verge of heading back to Canada that I popped in with a friend to grab a ‘catch-up-almost-see-you-when-I-see-you” crêpe. In addition to getting to spend an impromptu crêpe-catch-up-session with a mate, this place stands out because it was one of the few spots with a French flair that I visited along Melbourne’s laneways. I’d say that what I enjoyed most about this spot, in addition to its location, was that it exuded a little piece of French flavour. It isn’t very big and has a few tables under an awning. From the vantage point of one of those tables, you can soak in the fact that you’re eating a crêpe at the end of a cute laneway, while enjoying the Parisian-esque melodies wafting out from the restaurant speakers. There really is something about sitting outside of a small eatery, chatting with a mate, mowing down on a crêpe, and enjoying some French instrumental music to transport you and make you forget you’re even in a city. It was magic and if you’re ever craving some sugary, carby deliciousness in Melbs, this is a spot I’d suggest you swing by.

3. BAR AMPERE

Okay, this one is on the list with a bit of bias. Bar Ampere is another quaint laneway bar, tucked away, close to the intersection of Bourke Street and Swanston Street. For those of you who aren’t familiar with “Bourke and Swanston”, it’s one of the main intersections in downtown Melbourne where there are a lot of trams, a lot of people, and a lot of office buildings, shops, and dining options to keep you occupied. The only reason I even know of Bar Ampere’s existence is because I used to live five floors above it. When I first moved in, I had ventured downstairs in search of a cup of tea to sip while I unpacked. I had taken the lift downstairs, exited the door to my building, and stepped left through an archway that is almost-immediately next to the apartment entrance. The patio tables weren’t yet out for the day, but I noticed a guy scurrying around behind the bar inside. The sight of him, mixed with the door being open, was about as much of an invitation as I needed to venture inside. I entered the tiny indoor area and greeted him. Before I knew it, we’d been chatting for about 20 minutes. I’d learned that he was from south of Melbourne, his recommendations for restaurants to check out, and his opinion that I’d made the right decision to chase my love for Melbs by moving there (even if it was just temporary). He learned that I was from Canada, that living in Canberra had been my introduction to Australia, and that I was clearly having trouble containing my excitement over the move to my new apartment on Russell Place. He also learned that I was in search of tea. He asked what blend I preferred and began fixing a pot of tea. I thanked him for doing that, but asked if he’d mind me going upstairs to get a takeaway cup. He waved his hand in a politely-dismissive fashion and assured me that it was “no worries”, they had takeaway cups. We chatted a bit more about Melbs while the tea steeped. When he finally poured my cuppa, I asked what I owed him. He handed me the cup and told me it was my ‘welcome to the neighbourhood’. I attempted to give him money a couple times, but it was a lost cause. Ever since that interaction, Bar Ampere had me sold and has continued to hold a special place in my vault of travel memories. In terms of the venue, itself, there isn’t a whole lot of seating at the bar and it’s really, really small. BUT what I love about it (apart from its proximity to my former apartment) is its open concept. The entry way consists of an open wall with only a few archways to break it up. You step right off of the laneway and onto the patio that houses a handful of tables. I’d say that the patio is no more than 15 feet deep and 30 feet wide. At the back, there is a series of glass panes that are housed by black metal framing. Inside, there’s a round bar and a couple spots along a bench where you can sit and enjoy your bevvy and app away from the outdoors (though, it really is a small place, so you aren’t far from it).

4. JOURNAL CAFÉ

Why do I love this place so much? Honestly, I think a big part of it is the door….I really like that the main entrance off the laneway is a massive, sliding wooden door. Somehow, I think the name was another draw for me (I love journaling and tea, so getting to enjoy those two things at a place called “Journal Café” was a ‘win’). This café is nestled along Flinders Lane. Based on my mediocre powers of observation, it seemed to be a hotspot for university students. It’s a multi-levelish kind of place and there are tables set up on the lower level (where one enters from the lane), as well as up a flight of stairs where the front cash is located. It’s in great proximity to the main drag in the CBD, as well as the train station.

5. CHERRY BAR

I would say that this spot is pretty well-known in Melbourne, particularly among those who are searching for a spot to hangout and listen to some amazing live music. I had read a lot about Cherry Bar when I’d searched for live music gigs over the years I lived in Melbs. Though, just a few short weeks before the Australian visa scheme had me slated to leave, I realized that I had never actually ventured over to check it out. Ergo, prior to heading home, there was a two-week (ish) span when I went on a bit of a ‘live-gig-spree’. During this stint, I attended gigs every two or three nights (because YOLO); two of those gigs were at Cherry Bar. Despite my best efforts, I had a tricky time coaxing any of my mates into joining me, so I donned my ‘solo traveller’ mindset and decided to hit the gigs up anyways! For the record, I didn’t know either of the acts that I settled on attending. One was a group called The Bamboos and the other was a solo act named Gilby Clarke. I chose The Bamboos because they play funk/soul music that includes a lot of brass instruments. I chose to see Gilby Clarke after reading that he was the rhythm guitarist for Guns N’ Roses on their Use Your Illusion Tour and I thought that meant he would be cool. To be honest, sometimes seeing an act that I’ve never heard of before is my favourite kind of gig to attend. When I have no baseline for the act or their vibe, I don’t have any rigid expectations. When that’s the case, it’s pretty tough to walk away disappointed. Long-story-slightly-shorter, I had an amaaazing time at both of the shows I saw. Cherry Bar is about the music- no pretence to be found- and I loved that about this venue. There were throngs of music fans, you were allowed to dance on the benches, and there was a great mix of demographics and ages in attendance; the only solid theme among attendees was a clear love of music. To top it off, it’s located on ACDC Lane- how can you beat that?

6. HOUSE OF MAXIMÓN (COMEDY NIGHTS)

A few months into my first year living in Melbourne, I had gotten to know a few people quite well through Meet-Ups. One week, one of those new friends invited me to attend a weekly comedy night with her and some of her mates in the CBD. At that point, I had been working to put down some social roots, so being asked to join them on their outing had me absolutely pumped (and as a bonus, a comedy night sounded like a legit way to spend an evening!). She sent me the address, which conveniently turned out to be less than a ten-minute walk from my place, and I eagerly headed out one Wednesday night to join them. Before even getting up the stairs to the actual venue, I was already in love with it. The comedy night was (and still is) hosted at House of Maximón, which is located above another venue called Berlin Bar. Unless things have drastically changed since I was there (which, in fairness, is entirely possible), once you’re up the stairs, you’ll find that it’s a rather quaint, low-lit venue. There’s a small stage set up to the right, highlighted by a spotlight, a bar on the leftward wall, and seating and tables set up to fill the empty space. There’s also a row of chairs lined up at the front. If you sit in that front row, it’s code for “I’m okay with the comedians using me as live material during their set”. From the first time I attended the comedy night, through my weekly appearances at the event, right up until the Wednesday before I reluctantly left Melbourne (the first time), I got to know some wonderful people. They befriended and welcomed me with open arms and I enjoyed top notch comedy, while spending countless hours laughing, exchanging interesting stories with those same new friends, and getting to know the staff working there. Fun fact: On the last Wednesday that I attended the comedy night, the bar staff felt it would be appropriate to have me make my way behind the bar to serve a couple drinks for my friends. They said it was their way of making sure that I felt like part of their family, even though I was leaving (I didn’t spill or break anything, guys, it was a pretty big deal). One thing that I rattle on about with Melbourne, is how much its ‘vibe’ comes into play. Having said that (yet again), when I think back to all the time I spent at those comedy nights, I think that’s a big part of why it’s on this list; I felt like those nights so effortlessly embodied what “Melbourne is” to me- no pretence, a welcoming energy, and a place to spend time with your mates.

7. CHUCKLE PARK

I. Love. Chuckle. Park. Firstly, they have their drink menu on a chalkboard on the wall. They have a Bloody Mary on the drink list, which also includes a mention of the fact that the Bloody Mary is a derivative of the Bloody Caesar, citing its loyal fanbase of Canadian diehards. So, right off the bat, it scored points with me. BUT the true key to my obsession with this spot is its décor and ambiance. I didn’t make it to this venue very often, primarily because I was repeatedly confounded by my trial-and-error approach to knowing when it would be open (rather than Googling it like a normal person, I would just keep showing up on nights out with friends to see if we’d find that it was open). This place is the definition of a “hole-in-the-wall”-style venue. The first time I noticed Chuckle Park was when I was motoring along, on my way to catch a tram on Elizabeth Street. In fairness, it wasn’t exactly hard-to-miss: its entrance (and general width to the bar) is no more than twenty feet and is open-concept, apart form a white picket fence with a gap for patrons to flow through. The flooring consisted of an astroturf overlay and the cavernous ceiling was made to feel a lot smaller in height, thanks to the oversized fairy lights that zigzagged and spanned through the entire place. There were several hightop tables with stools that lined the sides and centre of the venue, with a food truck-stlye-looking bar in the back. My friend Katia and I had been hatching a plan to hit this place up, as I’d put it on my list of spots to visit before heading back to Canada. One evening, we made our way over (it was open!!) and planted ourselves at one of the hightop tables to enjoy some cocktails. I can safely confirm that its openness, unique décor, and downtown location make this spot a very cool ‘Melbourne-esque’ venue to hit up- just maybe Google when it’ll be open to save yourselves some time.

8. MADAME BRUSSELS

Madame Brussels is ‘one of those places’ in Melbourne where, if you ask for a recco. on a cool place to hit up, many people I know would likely suggest it be on your list. One thing I loved about going here, particularly the first time I visited, was that it was such a departure from any pubs or bars I’d frequented in other cities. The entrance to this bar is a bit tricky to find the first go around. Once you do manage to locate the entrance, you’ll ascend via either the stairs or an elevator. After emerging on the top floor, you will step out onto terracotta-coloured tiling into Madame Brussels. This bar has an indoor section, as well as an outdoor area that includes an upper deck level. Apart from the upper deck, the entire place is laden with astroturf and there are a whole lot of white lattice and iron furnishings throughout. The servers’ uniforms are reminiscent of those you’d find in a tennis club (I’m pretty sure that’s the point) and several of the drinks on the menu are tennis-themed. The views from this particular rooftop bar are pretty wonderful and just being that one level up, in the middle of the CBD, is an awesome benefit to this bar (and rooftops bars in general, in my opinion). Pro tip: If you’re keen to try some of their delicious cocktail pitchers, get yourself a couple mates and head on over to split the cost and enjoy your bevvys together (win-win)!

9. SIGLO

Brace yourselves for another ‘cool rooftop bar’. I believe the first time I visited Siglo was with a couple mates who originally hailed from Melbs. Since Melbourne was their home city, they were much better at navigating ‘hangouts with elusive entrances’ than I was and introducing me to Siglo was one of their top priorities. I do recall that I was abnormally enthused when they walked me to the main entrance; the degree of ‘unassuming’ that the front door embodied was amazing. The door to Siglo is a dark, metal door that’s set a half-a-step-up and slightly back from the main sidewalk, with a single light shining down to highlight its existence (I realize that this description is effectively romanticizing the sight of a door, but my obsession with the very idea of obscure entrances and ‘hidden gems’ is kind of difficult to contain). Once you make your way up the initial set of stairs, you’ll emerge into a relatively-small, open lounge area, with another seating area up a small set of stairs; but this isn’t even close to being my favourite part of the bar. If you head up that small set of stairs and continue towards the back, you’ll note a door that will lead you to more stairs. Ascend those, and you’ll eventually make your way up to their rooftop section (yes, I love my rooftop bars). The rooftop section at Siglo isn’t all that spacious, but there is a lovely collection of tables and, at the open end, there’s a short wall that allows one to look over Spring Street at the Parliament building situated across the road. My favourite time to enjoy this view was during the evenings. When it’s dark outside, the Parliament building is aglow, thanks to flood lighting that’s angled to highlight its architectural nuances. SO, I’d strongly advise that you find that obscure door, make your way up those few flights of stairs, grab yourself a glass of wine (and maybe/definitely an app), and enjoy soaking in a relaxing evening from an understated, yet perfect rooftop Melbourne bar.

10. DEGRAVES STREET (IN GENERAL)

While it isn’t a single spot, it was absolutely necessary to place Degraves Street on this list. This is a laneway that’s home to a series of restaurants, cafés, a couple shops, and all the vibes. It’s just next to Flinders Street Station and is a haven for pedestrians. When the weather is nice and COVID isn’t a factor, there are tables and umbrellas where you can grab a bite to eat at a restaurant called The Quarter. This laneway is conducive to socializing and enjoying delicious food. It’s another lane that made me forget I was in the downtown core of a massive city. It embodied such a social, lively atmosphere, making it all too easy to get lost in ‘the scene’.

Final thoughts on Melbourne and its laneway culture:

Even as I proofread this post, I was in agony because there are so many spots in the CBD that I didn’t list. So, please count this list as a starting point for your own exploration! Melbourne is the kind of city where ‘it is what you make it’. There’s so much to do and to see and the city is teeming with places to explore. The tricky thing is that the city isn’t going to drag anyone out to enjoy its laneways, restaurants, or shops; that’s on us. I can promise you, though, as long as you’re down to venture outside, there’s an endless supply of interesting, artsy, sporty, or eclectic sights to see- you just have to get to stepping.